Sonja's Approach to Formulating Moya Essentials

By Sonja Borodin-Sleigh

"I am often asked why I started Moya Essentials, and how I approach formulating my products. The simple answer is that I wanted to create safe, effective natural skincare that harnesses the healing power of plants - without the use of toxic or harmful ingredients. However, I quickly learned that natural does not always mean safe. Plant extracts can be incredibly potent and require careful research into their chemical components, efficacy, and safe usage levels."

Formulation is, to me, a delicate and fascinating process. It begins with a clear purpose:
identifying a specific skin concern or desired result. From there, I select the most suitable
ingredients - carrier oils, botanical actives, and essential components that will work
together synergistically. Each choice matters. Carrier oils, for example, have their own
polarity (positive or negative charge), which can influence how they interact with enzymes
in plant actives such as aloe vera. pH balance is another crucial factor; certain active
ingredients only perform optimally within a specific pH range, so this must be carefully
considered in every formula.

Having studied Natural Skincare Formulation in the UK, I soon discovered a challenge many South African formulators face: limited access to certain ingredients locally. This led me to begin making my own botanical extracts, using indigenous plants wherever possible. It was another beautiful rabbit hole of discovery - understanding which active components are water-soluble or oil-soluble, and tailoring my extraction process accordingly.

Many vitamins - such as A, D, E, and K - are oil-soluble, so oil-based extractions are often ideal for capturing their benefits. Further studies in Making Botanical Extraction for Professional Skincare have given me added confidence in creating my own ingredients and inspired me to explore the unique potential of local botanicals like Spekboom. 

In my own small-scale facility, I am not GMP certified but I do adhere to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP), which is essential for producing safe, stable skincare products. Thankfully, it is entirely possible for me to follow these standards as closely as possible even on a small scale. That said, I highly recommend undergoing formal training with a reputable institution for anyone serious about formulating. For me, formulation is a wonderful journey that blends science, chemistry, and botany-a creative process where nature and knowledge meet. The results can be truly extraordinary.